Sydkap – Windy dance between Icebergs

There is one week left before our flight back to Iceland. The clock is ticking. Ironicaly, without boat, we had never been that still.We are stuck. Outside the hutt, the wind is blowing. Sheltered in our new home, we enjoy the unique scenery: A ballet of giant Icebergs . From small ice cubes, to huge iced cliffs they seem stuck in an eternal dance. Evrard is mesmerized by the biggest Icebergs, he dreams of accosting these magestic iced ships. Ice axes in his hands, crampons on his feet, he is ready to challenge these white wall, tainted of blue .

Days after days,the wind is geting stronger. We are well aware of the luck we had with the weather until now – almost no wind, now snow at all and very few wind. Last year, the summer in the scoresby has been cold, wet and cloudy ... much less friendly.

The Ice pack on the fjord barely disapeared, and those who were brave enough to sail, did not sleep soudly. This year, we were lucky. Lucky ? Think again. This year Greenland has seen hot temperature like never before and the ice cap melted accordingly. The south-est coast even endure drought times. The earth average, on 2016 first semester has also been higher than usual, as well as the melt of arctic floe. (source : NASA)

Aurélie Evrard join the iceberg kayaking failed opposite Sydkap Aurélie and Evrard reaching in kayak the Iceberg stranded in front of Sydkap

Eventually, Evrard can't ignore the call of the adventure anymore. He is going to explore the Icebergs nearby with Aurelie. Just in front of the hutt, a huge iceberg has drifted few days ago, and, bumping the bottom of the fjord, got stucked there. Its main cliff is about 30m high. It could rest here few weeks, depending on the weather, and the streams. Though it collapses ten times a day, this Iceberg looks rather stable - as stable an Iceberg could be - and safe.

Taking adventage of a lull, kayaks are put on the water quickly. Evrard and Aurelie start to paddle, and reach the iceberg in about twenty minutes. The kayaks seems so tiny in front of these beautifull walls.. Next to the ice cliff, noises are mesmerizing. The ice is cracking, melting, and flowing down to the see. The under-water ice is bubbling. The waves are crashing against the shore et the many icecubes around the iceberg are dancing, carried around by streams.

Aurélie Evrard and kayaks explore the cliffs and coves of ice from an iceberg in front of Sydkap failed. Evrard and Aurélie are kayaking between the cliff and the iced cove of a Iceberg near Sydkap.

The wall looks vertical and strong enough. A small creek allow us to accost the Iceberg, instead of jumping on it from the kayak, crampon on feet. But Iceclimbing an Iceberg is not today's mission ... The sea, peacefull until now, is starting to flop and the chop is getting stronger.

Feeling the wind getting stronger, paddlers decide to turn back to the iceberg and returned to the coast. Mais à peine ont-ils quitté la proximité de l’iceberg que le vent et le courant les déportent presque à 90° du cap qu’ils ont pris sur la cabane. La lutte contre les vagues est épuisante, le risque de chavirer, bien réel, demande une attention constante sur ces kayaks extrêmement mobiles. Pour soulager Aurélie qui fatigue, Evrard fixe un bout entre les deux kayaks, et les voilà qui repartent de plus belle, faisant danser les pagaies au milieu du ballet des vagues.

Au-dessus de la cabane, Laurent surveille les kayakistes aux jumelles. Par radio, il prévient Gaëlle et Philippe de préparer les combis. Si l’un des kayaks chavire, il enfilera la sienne, et les rejoindra à la nage pour leur donner un coup de main. Chavirer dans ces eaux glaciales sans combis n’est déjà pas anodin, mais remonter sur un kayak qui roule sur l’eau est un vrai challenge !

Finalement, les kayaks parviennent à franchir la moitié du bras de mer, et atteignent une zone abritée du vent. A peine une dizaine de minutes plus tard, ils touchent la côte à plusieurs centaines de mètres à l’est de la cabane.

Un eider à proximité de la cabane de Sydkap. Un eider à proximité de la cabane de Sydkap.

As the days go by, we get used to the passage of local wildlife. Ringed seals regularly pass in front of the rocks or further offshore in the midst of icebergs. Some are so big that in our desire to see narwhals, we fail to confuse them with cetaceans! The whole team is then on the alert until the alert is lifted.

Le phoque annulé, un de nos compagnons au quotidien pendant l'expédition. The canceled seal, one of our daily companions during the expedition.

When the wind is calmer, Laurent initiates diving in icy waters. Neoprene suits provided by Topstar allow to change the hours in the water, feeling just the cold. A great way to soak up the environment without taking the temperature.

Mathieu taste the pleasure of contemplation on ice. Mathieu taste the pleasure of contemplation on ice.

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