We're finally at sea ! The solid Donna Wood appears now very light as it sails away into the Bay of Skajalfandi. As the little Icelandic harbour of Húsavík fades away, the mountains of the fjord offer us a final horizon. We are all on the deck looking amazed at this adventure taking shape in these wooden masts and rebellious bow opening the waves of the ocean.
Donna Wood leaving the coast of Iceland.(Photo © Yann Bigant / Naturevolution)
Laas, Danish, 30 years old, abruptly interrupts our reverie: it's time to hoist the mainsail. The mechanics will not help us : this time it will be by the strength of our arms that the large sail will go up. The tall ship takes a new look. So far, we still ignore the vagaries of the sea, which will leave us no respite.
Donna Wood in the Greenland Sea (Photo © Yann Bigant / Naturevolution)
Inside, the boat is comfortable: cabins for two people, two large showers - showers ... our last -- Large "living room", kitchenette, where we smell cooked fish... Tonight haddock brandade is on the menu! Gudny Elise, former Icelandic florist reconverted into chef-at-sea, is cooking. And much more beyond that. She will not stop smiling during the three-day trip - it will soothe our sorrows.
They are quick to appear. A few hours of crossing and now it gets on board, with his bad nights and hazy days, endless, like that never-ending daylight. Seasick. The faces are closed, complexion blurs. Eyes desperately seeking something on which to hang. Nothing helps. Christian, the captain, gives his first speech to a silent and extinguished team. Olivier and Evrard force a smile, eyes rooted to the ground. For a whole day, they will have to only horizon the four walls of their cabin.
Evrard and Phil exchange ideas around the glider UAV flights.(Photo © Yann Bigant / Naturevolution)
Cheerful atmosphere on the deck. Yann, Eric, Philip and I are the last "survivors" of seasickness. We especially enjoy the recent surprises disturbing our contemplation. To our right, ghostly apparition of "Flat Island" where are erected several houses. Is it a dream? The sudden dance of two dolphins coming to rub our hull is confusing. But it doesn't matter because this life on board is like a dream.
I last little longer than my comrades: my stomach growls, I feel dizzy. I look on Google Earth : we reach the symbolic 66°N - relief. We crossed it. I can go down to my cabin and join the sick.
Quiet time for Agnes with hot tea.(Photo © Yann Bigant / Naturevolution)
The ship continues to run despite the swells and the 25-knot wind. On board, silence. The Icelandic Egill, a former student in Visual Anthropology, and crewmember is unfazed. He slips from one place to another, moving at the pace of the vessel, being one with it. Is he born here? No, it is only the second time he worked for North Sailing. The conversation ends. Again silence, just interrupted by a brief but happy reunion around the dinner.
Outside, the sound is that of the engine purring, and the waves caressing the ship. For many hours, our only horizon is that sun without sleep, veiled by a thin haze. The sea, the vast Arctic sea offers nothing but dark depths. Suddenly, something shines. Tired eyes widen, struggling to believe : the huge white rock that appear to float above the waters ... An iceberg! The crew holds his breath and find a second life since departure : we are now all on deck. Evrard appears, carried by a new momentum. Head in hands, tears in eyes, he murmured, "my first iceberg." The joy is immense while stands before us, one by one, the sea monsters, showing us the way to Ittoqqottormit. Take out the bottles of rum: we are on the verge of reaching the Scoresby Sund.
